
Manual Tensioner
The first
time I built this for my car I didn't take pictures since I wasn't sure if it
would work well. Right after it went on I knew it was going to be much more
reliable then the Mitsu automatic version! It's perfect for people who can't
keep their hands off their cars and don't mind taking the top timing cover off
once in a while to make sure the tension is fine. It's far more adjustable then
the automatic tensioner, more reliable and way cheaper then replacing it every
timing belt change (never needs replacing)
I
wouldn't recommend this to anyone who has someone else change their timing belt
then thinks they can ignore it for 3 years.
Click
any photo for larger detailed version
 |
This is the
tensioner as an automatic unit. It is filled with oil that is under
pressure once the top pin is compressed. It is impossible to rebuild these
without the factory tool that applies a block plug type seal to the side
of the tensioner. |

|
First thing is
to remove the set screw and let the oil drain out. |


|
Drill the hole
in the bottom larger to accept a 10X1.25 tap. (17/64??)
You will just clear the
spring that is in the side of the tensioner
The bottom of the top pin
that is 40mm from the bottom of the tensioner assembly.
|

|
Tap the hole
you just drilled with a 10X1.25 metric tap.
If you can't find a 40mm
bolt with the threads tapped right to the bolt head you will have to use a
die to extend the threads.
|
 |
Here is the
assembly together. If you use a 50mm bolt you can put a nut on the bottom
of the bolt to reverse it into the tensioner so the bolt doesn't wiggle
loose. I prefer using the heavy loctite myself. |
 |
Here's the
tesioner on one of my dead engines. You can see that the bolt clears all
pulleys with lots of room for adjustment. It is well out of the way of the
timing belt as well. |
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© Copyright 2000 Michael
Hamilton. All Rights Reserved.
Email me with any questions or comments mdhamilton@home.com
This page was last edited March 08, 2001 03:33 PM